A conversation with Chef Tok, Perat Anantapan, owner of Secret Garden Songkhla and president of the Songkhla Creative culinary Association, about making the most of ingredients, reducing kitchen waste, and why the value of good food should not end when the meal is over.
Place a whole sea bass on the table and most people may see one main course. A chef, however, may see several dishes in the same fish.
The center fillet can be steamed, grilled, or fried. Trimmings can become fish cakes, the skin can be fried until crisp, and the head and bones can make stock for curries, soups, and sauces.
This is about more than a chef’s skill. It means recognizing the value of an ingredient beyond its finest-looking part.
For Chef Tok, Peerach Anantaphan, the conversation about reducing food waste should go beyond the term Zero Waste. Whenever an ingredient is discarded, the money, time, labor, and natural resources invested in it are lost as well.
Discarded food costs more than the ingredient itself
What does making full use of ingredients mean to Chef Tok?
“A dish is more than its flavor. Behind it are farmers, fishers, transport workers, vendors, and cooks.
When we throw food away, we lose more than fish, vegetables, or rice. We also waste the water, energy, time, and labor used throughout its journey.
This is especially close to home in Songkhla, where our ingredients come from the sea, the lake, agricultural areas, and community markets. Using ingredients fully is therefore a way of respecting both nature and the people who produce our food.”
Traditional wisdom that predates the term Zero Waste
Is this a new idea?
“Not entirely. Earlier generations knew how to dry, ferment, pickle, simmer, and preserve seasonal ingredients. They understood that every ingredient has its time. When something was abundant in one season, they found ways to preserve it for days when it was scarce.
They may not have used the terms Zero Waste or circular economy, but they knew how to work with ingredients and make the fullest use of them.
Good Food, Less Waste brings that traditional wisdom into today’s homes, restaurants, and cities.”
A whole sea bass should be more than its finest fillet
“Sea bass is an important ingredient in Songkhla, and it clearly demonstrates how fully an ingredient can be used.
When a restaurant buys a whole fish, we should not think only about what to do with the center fillet. We should plan from the beginning where every part will go.
The main fillet becomes the principal dish. The belly and trimmings can become fish cakes, dumpling filling, or fish balls. The skin can be fried until crisp, while the head and bones can be used for stock.
One fish can therefore become more than one dish. A chef’s creativity is not measured only by how a plate looks, but also by the ability to make overlooked parts valuable and delicious enough that customers want to eat them.”